Currant
Currant (Latin: Ribes) is a berry crop; a perennial deciduous shrub belonging to the gooseberry family.
Description
Currant is a shrub up to 1. 5 m tall, with strong branches and fairly robust annual shoots that form from the base of the bush. The leaves are petiolate, palmately lobed, glossy on the outer side, and pubescent on the underside along the veins, arranged alternately.
The flowers are collected in clusters of 4-8 and can be reddish-brown or greenish. During flowering, they are arranged upright, drooping during the initial stage of berry formation. Flowering occurs in late April — early May and lasts for two weeks. The fruit is a multi-seeded berry, which can be pale yellow, black, red, or brown. Currants are easy-to-grow plants that produce good yields of berries. With proper and timely care, a single bush can yield approximately 15-17 kg. They are productive for a long period, beginning to bear fruit in the third year after planting, and can last up to 20-25 years. Ripe berries remain on the branches for a long time. Today, this crop is grown in gardens around the world in many varieties and hybrids. Currants are especially popular among Russian gardeners.
Growing Tips
Currants are sun-loving plants, preferring well-lit areas. When grown in the shade, they produce small yields of low-quality berries. Gooseberries are drought-resistant and relatively demanding of soil moisture. They thrive in loamy, clayey, and sandy loam soils, as well as in moist, loose, fertile soils. Currants do not tolerate lowlands and depressions with stagnant cold air. Planting
It”s best to plant currant seedlings in the fall, or more precisely, in late September or early October (depending on the region). This will allow the plants to develop a good root system before the onset of persistent cold weather and allow them to survive the cold winter without any problems. Planting in early spring is acceptable; in summer, currants should only be planted in containers. Seedlings can be either one-year-old or two-year-old, and both types thrive in their new locations.
Prepare the planting hole 2-3 weeks before the intended planting date. It should be 40 x 40 x 40 cm. The soil removed from the hole is thoroughly mixed with rotted manure (6-8 kg), superphosphate (200-300 g), and wood ash (200 g). A portion of the soil is poured into the bottom of the hole. The seedling is then placed in the hole, spreading the roots, compacted with the remaining soil, watered thoroughly, and mulched with peat or fallen leaves. Immediately after planting, all shoots are trimmed back, leaving 5-7 cm above ground level.
Care Instructions
During the first few years after planting, new shoots are formed. The plant experiences a mineral deficiency, so it requires timely fertilization with complex fertilizers. Organic fertilizers should be applied in late fall. Weeding is carried out regularly, as weeds rob the bushes of many nutrients and moisture. Loosening is carried out three times per season; overgrown bushes require support. Carefully monitor the bushes; branches should not overlap, otherwise they will not dry out after rain, leading to disease and berry spoilage.
Bushes are tied together for the winter, as snow presses on the branches, causing them to break. If severe frosts are expected, currants are covered with a special material.
Pruning
Currants do not tolerate overcrowding, as this negatively impacts yield and berry quality. Therefore, the crop requires annual sanitary and formative pruning. Sanitary pruning is carried out in early spring, removing frozen and broken branches.
Formative pruning is carried out closer to autumn, when the bushes enter a dormant phase. Currant bushes are formed from 15 branches of varying ages. Weak and seven-year-old branches are pruned, leaving 3-5 developed one-year-old shoots.
Pruning one-year-old branches is not required, or rather, should not be done, as flower buds are forming on them. Shoots are pruned to an upward-facing bud. Cuts with a diameter greater than 0. 8 cm are coated with garden pitch.
Leningrad — Red Currant, about Russia (Leningrad, Redcurrant, Shnurov) single
The pit for planting is prepared 2-3 weeks before the intended planting, its size should be 40*40*40 cm. The soil removed from the pit is thoroughly mixed with rotted manure (6-8 kg), superphosphate (200-300 g) and wood ash (200 g). Part of the soil substrate is poured to the bottom of the hole, then the seedling is lowered, straightening the roots, compacted with the remaining soil, watered abundantly and mulched with peat or fallen leaves. Immediately after planting, all shoots of the seedling are cut off, leaving 5-7 cm above the soil level.
Features of care
In the first years after planting the seedlings, new shoots are formed, the plant experiences a lack of minerals, so it needs timely feeding with complex fertilizers. Organic matter should be added in late autumn.
Currant
Currant (Latin: Ribes) is a berry crop; a perennial deciduous shrub belonging to the gooseberry family.
Description
Currant is a shrub up to 1. 5 m tall, with strong branches and fairly robust annual shoots that form from the base of the bush. The leaves are petiolate, palmately lobed, glossy on the outer side, and pubescent on the underside along the veins, arranged alternately.
The flowers are collected in clusters of 4-8 and can be reddish-brown or greenish. During flowering, they are arranged upright, drooping during the initial stage of berry formation. Flowering occurs in late April — early May and lasts for two weeks. The fruit is a multi-seeded berry, which can be pale yellow, black, red, or brown. Currants are easy-to-grow plants that produce good yields of berries. With proper and timely care, a single bush can yield approximately 15-17 kg. They are productive for a long period, beginning to bear fruit in the third year after planting, and can last up to 20-25 years. Ripe berries remain on the branches for a long time. Today, this crop is grown in gardens around the world in many varieties and hybrids. Currants are especially popular among Russian gardeners.
Growing Tips
Currants are sun-loving plants, preferring well-lit areas. When grown in the shade, they produce small yields of low-quality berries. Gooseberries are drought-resistant and relatively demanding of soil moisture. They thrive in loamy, clayey, and sandy loam soils, as well as in moist, loose, fertile soils. Currants do not tolerate lowlands and depressions with stagnant cold air. Planting
It”s best to plant currant seedlings in the fall, or more precisely, in late September or early October (depending on the region). This will allow the plants to develop a good root system before the onset of persistent cold weather and allow them to survive the cold winter without any problems. Planting in early spring is acceptable; in summer, currants should only be planted in containers. Seedlings can be either one-year-old or two-year-old, and both types thrive in their new locations.
Prepare the planting hole 2-3 weeks before the intended planting date. It should be 40 x 40 x 40 cm. The soil removed from the hole is thoroughly mixed with rotted manure (6-8 kg), superphosphate (200-300 g), and wood ash (200 g). A portion of the soil is poured into the bottom of the hole. The seedling is then placed in the hole, spreading the roots, compacted with the remaining soil, watered thoroughly, and mulched with peat or fallen leaves. Immediately after planting, all shoots are trimmed back, leaving 5-7 cm above ground level.
Care Instructions
During the first few years after planting, new shoots are formed. The plant experiences a mineral deficiency, so it requires timely fertilization with complex fertilizers. Organic fertilizers should be applied in late fall. Weeding is carried out regularly, as weeds rob the bushes of many nutrients and moisture. Loosening is carried out three times per season; overgrown bushes require support. Carefully monitor the bushes; branches should not overlap, otherwise they will not dry out after rain, leading to disease and berry spoilage.
Bushes are tied together for the winter, as snow presses on the branches, causing them to break. If severe frosts are expected, currants are covered with a special material.
Pruning
Currants do not tolerate overcrowding, as this negatively impacts yield and berry quality. Therefore, the crop requires annual sanitary and formative pruning. Sanitary pruning is carried out in early spring, removing frozen and broken branches.
Formative pruning is carried out closer to autumn, when the bushes enter a dormant phase. Currant bushes are formed from 15 branches of varying ages. Weak and seven-year-old branches are pruned, leaving 3-5 developed one-year-old shoots.
Pruning one-year-old branches is not required, or rather, should not be done, as flower buds are forming on them. Shoots are pruned to an upward-facing bud. Cuts with a diameter greater than 0. 8 cm are coated with garden pitch.
Leningrad — Red Currant, about Russia (Leningrad, Redcurrant, Shnurov) single
The pit for planting is prepared 2-3 weeks before the intended planting, its size should be 40*40*40 cm. The soil removed from the pit is thoroughly mixed with rotted manure (6-8 kg), superphosphate (200-300 g) and wood ash (200 g). Part of the soil substrate is poured to the bottom of the hole, then the seedling is lowered, straightening the roots, compacted with the remaining soil, watered abundantly and mulched with peat or fallen leaves. Immediately after planting, all shoots of the seedling are cut off, leaving 5-7 cm above the soil level.
Features of care
